Weaving classic craft into modern items

By Chen Bowen in Haikou | China Daily | Updated: 2023-05-05 06:14

Liu Xianglan (center) is a national representative inheritor of the traditional brocade artisanship of the Li ethnic group. LI TIANPING/FOR CHINA DAILY

Liu Xianglan, a national representative inheritor of the traditional brocade artisanship of the Li ethnic group in Wuzhishan city, South China's Hainan province, demonstrated traditional spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidery skills with a waist loom during the Milan Design Week 2023.

At the invitation of the event's organizers, Hainan brought its Li ethnic culture exhibition and traditional activities to the event on April 17. The display lasted until April 23.

At the display, models wore Li ethnic clothes, scarves and handbags in both traditional and fashionable styles. "These cultural products have shown the diverse styles of Li brocade and the modern vitality of our traditional culture," says Liu. "I feel so honored to bring Hainan's Li ethnic culture abroad, and I am glad to see our culture have exchanges and cooperation with the world's fashion industry.

"Many curious spectators were wowed by our Li brocade, and they told me that they couldn't imagine how, with such a seemingly simple tool, we Li people can weave those beautiful, classic patterns," she adds.

Liu Xianglan (right) demonstrates Li ethnic culture with fellow Li women on April 17 during the Milan Design Week 2023. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"Li brocade is so beautiful," Francesco Caprini, cultural adviser to the deputy prime minister of Italy, says, praising the craft during a visit to the event.

In the Li ethnic group, women are expected to be adept at weaving the signature brocade. The textile technique is usually passed down from mothers to daughters from early childhood through verbal instruction and personal demonstration. With their imagination and knowledge of traditional styles, Li women design and make their own Li brocade patterns.

Liu, 54, a resident in Fanmao village, Wuzhishan, began to learn the weaving techniques from her mother at 13 years old.

"My grandmother passed it on to my mother, and my mother taught us. Among my sisters, I was the one who cared most about the patterns and colors of Li brocade," she says. "Throughout the years, I went to nearby villages, and even cities and counties, to study different patterns, so as to better inherit this cultural heritage."

In June 2009, Liu was named a national representative inheritor of the traditional Li brocade technique. Four months later, UNESCO included the craft on its intangible cultural heritage list, declaring it to be in urgent need of protection.

Hainan presents a Li ethnic culture exhibition and traditional activities during the Milan Design Week 2023. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Experts say that the skills involved in the craft have been key in the history of China's textile industry.

Spinning is the most challenging part of making Li brocade cloth, according to Liu, as it requires time and patience. "Cotton and wild hemp on the island are collected in the rainy season, and rubbed slowly with a spinning wheel," she explains. "The rough fibers are first processed into linen, which is then rolled into hemp yarn, and eventually woven into fine, soft cloth."

There are mainly five branches of the Li ethnic group across the province. They speak different dialects, have different customs and dress in different styles of Li brocade.

Liu has not only mastered the textile techniques of her own community, but is also able to introduce the classic patterns and colors of all the Li ethnic branches.

Despite differences, traditional Li brocade, with a history of more than 3,000 years, often depicts a yearning for a better life. It usually features blue and black, as, in the old days, these two dominant colors hid dirt and stains as a result of working and daily chores more effectively, Liu says.

In her works, the background color of Li brocade is still mostly black, or blue and black, and occasionally red.

Models wear clothes featuring Li brocade patterns. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"Now that people's lives have become better, the color combinations of Li brocade are richer than before," she says. "Young people will choose bright colors for their clothing."

In 2005, Liu set up a company and called upon women in her village to practice the skills and make Li brocade. Two years later, with the support of the local government, Liu established a workshop and provided free courses on the techniques to fellow female villagers.

"I help them learn and improve their Li textile techniques. The works they weave are often bought by my company, and we sell them to markets across the country and even abroad," she says. "In this way, I can bring economic benefits to everyone involved in inheriting the craft."

Liu's company combines modern design with traditional styles, and produces clothing items, including skirts, scarves, bandannas, cheongsam and ties, as well as other daily use items and home decoration, such as mouse pads, umbrellas, handbags and murals, featuring Li brocade patterns.

In the past, only women learned Li brocade-weaving, but Liu has passed her craft on to her son, who in turn has passed them on to her grandchildren. Her grandson, Wang Chengye, now 8 years old, began to learn the textile technique at the age of 3. He is now able to weave at least four types of Li brocade patterns.

As Li brocade grows in popularity, so, too, does Liu's fame. There are also more Li brocade fashion shows being held, and demand for her company's products often outweighs supply, she says.

For Bai Yujie, a visitor from Beijing who has traveled to Wuzhishan several times, the beautiful, handmade Li brocade is a must-have on her shopping list. "I think Li brocade should not only be placed in museums or just in Li people's homes. By putting traditional elements together with modern design, it can definitely be introduced to more people," she says. "Now there are more creative product options like scarves and accessories with exquisite Li brocade patterns on them. Every time I visit Wuzhishan, I will buy such gifts for my family and friends."